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#1
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![]() Has anybody tried these? I've been reading up on them and they sound interesting as I have persistently high nitrate levels. --Kurt |
#2
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I never heard of this but; I had a problem with Nitrates for a while and
when I got rid of the Bio media in my canister, plus more partial water changes, I was able to get it under control. "KurtG" wrote in message ... Has anybody tried these? I've been reading up on them and they sound interesting as I have persistently high nitrate levels. --Kurt |
#3
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Peter Pan wrote:
I never heard of this but; It's much more common in Europe (from what I read). Here's one: http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...denitrator.asp They are also used for public water supplies to remove nitrates from fresh water. In sal****er, the reactions aren't well understood, but they appear to work well, but they may raise PH due to proton release so they are back ended with a calcium carbonate chamber (which in theory will release Ca ions). They are amazingly expensive for a tube of plastic with separated sections for elemental sulfur and calcium carbonate, but I was planning to build my own. --Kurt |
#4
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KurtG wrote:
Has anybody tried these? I've been reading up on them and they sound interesting as I have persistently high nitrate levels. --Kurt Might want to start with something simpler such as a deep sand bed - simply have 6 inches oir so of sand depth on the bottom of your tank, and arrange the live rock so that most of it is NOT in direct contact with the sand (ie: build lots of rock "bridges" so most of the rocks are not directly on the sand) - you also need to have good turbulent water flow - I aim for about 15 times turnover of tank volume per hour. Use more little powerheads rather that 1 or two big ones. Aim them at the back of the rocks, or even at each other, so that the flow is turbulent. DON'T aim them straight into open spaces in the tank. Works quite well for me. Oh, and also don't use anything like a wet dry or trickle filter - it creates nitrates to fast. In fact, just use the circulation over your live rock as your biological filtration (assuming you have enough - at least 1/4 total volume of the tank IMO) Doing what I describe above, I consistently have 0/0/0 ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in my tank. |
#5
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that *other* annoying little troll wrote:
you also need to have good turbulent water flow Hm, good ideas.... I have a dry/wet setup right now and it's obviously not working. Maybe I should just rip it out and rely on the protein skimmer and my live rock (which I have copious quantities of). I could also upgrade my power heads. I might as well while I'm still figuring out the sulfur angle. --Kurt |
#6
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KurtG wrote:
Hm, good ideas.... I have a dry/wet setup right now and it's obviously not working. Maybe I should just rip it out and rely on the protein skimmer and my live rock (which I have copious quantities of). I could also upgrade my power heads. I had an Eheim Wet/dry filter. I now have about 130 pounds of live rock in a 125 gallon tank with a Tunze 6060, which generates 1600 gph flow. I was originally intending to keep the Eheim running, but it sprang a leak. The nitrites remain at 0. The nitrates build up at about the same rate as they did with the Eheim. Based on this, I would definitely recommend the course of action you're considering. Based on what that other annoying little troll said, I will probably try realigning the Tunze to produce more turbulence. George Patterson No one ever says "It's only a game." when his team is winning. |
#7
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![]() "George Patterson" wrote in message news:xhUuh.585$Ss1.215@trnddc07... KurtG wrote: Hm, good ideas.... I have a dry/wet setup right now and it's obviously not working. Maybe I should just rip it out and rely on the protein skimmer and my live rock (which I have copious quantities of). I could also upgrade my power heads. I had an Eheim Wet/dry filter. I now have about 130 pounds of live rock in a 125 gallon tank with a Tunze 6060, which generates 1600 gph flow. I was originally intending to keep the Eheim running, but it sprang a leak. The nitrites remain at 0. The nitrates build up at about the same rate as they did with the Eheim. Based on this, I would definitely recommend the course of action you're considering. Based on what that other annoying little troll said, I will probably try realigning the Tunze to produce more turbulence. George Patterson No one ever says "It's only a game." when his team is winning. I love me trickles and biomedia filled sumps yea I water change to get rid of nitrates anyway, have setup a deepsandbed for a mate in his new 6 footer not sure if it's gonna help but went and dug a hole at the beach actually collected stinky blackened sand and layered the sand bed in the tank not sure if it's going to speed it up much but can but hope. Most of my marine are very overstocked with fish and lots of biological filters are needed only now am I moving into the reef style tank So I am going to try the LR and powerhead technique yea have a nice skimmer as well but main difference is the big reduction in bioload super understocked but I tells ya they are some happy shrimps! One question tho.... for a deepsand bed should I be worried about excessive worm life? only been a month and they have made tunnels all thru it well can't see right at the bottem but there is a lot more than I have ever had before bristles and others I know they are good normally for moving o2 thru sand but thats not desirable is this case?...? |
#8
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swarvegorilla wrote:
"George Patterson" wrote in message news:xhUuh.585$Ss1.215@trnddc07... KurtG wrote: Hm, good ideas.... I have a dry/wet setup right now and it's obviously not working. Maybe I should just rip it out and rely on the protein skimmer and my live rock (which I have copious quantities of). I could also upgrade my power heads. I had an Eheim Wet/dry filter. I now have about 130 pounds of live rock in a 125 gallon tank with a Tunze 6060, which generates 1600 gph flow. I was originally intending to keep the Eheim running, but it sprang a leak. The nitrites remain at 0. The nitrates build up at about the same rate as they did with the Eheim. Based on this, I would definitely recommend the course of action you're considering. Based on what that other annoying little troll said, I will probably try realigning the Tunze to produce more turbulence. George Patterson No one ever says "It's only a game." when his team is winning. I love me trickles and biomedia filled sumps yea I water change to get rid of nitrates anyway, have setup a deepsandbed for a mate in his new 6 footer not sure if it's gonna help but went and dug a hole at the beach actually collected stinky blackened sand and layered the sand bed in the tank not sure if it's going to speed it up much but can but hope. Most of my marine are very overstocked with fish and lots of biological filters are needed only now am I moving into the reef style tank Depends on what you call "overstocked" right now my 20 gal has: 1 yellow tang (yep - yellow tang in a twenty - doing well at that!) 2 ocellaris 1 red scooter "blenny" dragonette 2 large hawaiian fether dusters about 1 sq foot of xooanthid polyps (5 different types) 1 indonesian cleaner shrimp 1 peppermint shrimp 1 mythrax crab 5 blue leg hermits 4 astreas 6 ceriths 2 tonga conchs.. And to especially help nitrates: 2 tridacna maximas 1 tridacns derasa 2 stalks of pink and whit xenia So I am going to try the LR and powerhead technique yea have a nice skimmer as well but main difference is the big reduction in bioload More impotrant to have an OFFSET bioload - add things that eat the waste of the other things. super understocked but I tells ya they are some happy shrimps! One question tho.... for a deepsand bed should I be worried about excessive worm life? nah. only been a month and they have made tunnels all thru it Yup. well can't see right at the bottem but there is a lot more than I have ever had before bristles and others I know they are good normally for moving o2 thru sand but thats not desirable is this case?...? Deepends. How deep is deep for your deep sand bed? |
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