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#1
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![]() I went and got paver sand at Homedepot out of habit. Am I supposed to use play sand? The paver sand isn't very consistent. -- Jim |
#2
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You need a calcium based sand. A silica based sand
can be used, but a calcium based sand is better. Wayne Sallee jthread wrote on 11/29/2007 6:02 PM: I went and got paver sand at Homedepot out of habit. Am I supposed to use play sand? The paver sand isn't very consistent. |
#3
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#4
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jthread wrote:
I got Caribbean Live sand. $55 for 40 lbs. Claims to reduce nitrates. "Real Aragonite" Whatever that means. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aragonite It's what you want. It's usually comes from calcareous endoskeleton corals, so it's basically dead coral that has turned to sand by grinding action. |
#5
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![]() "Wayne Sallee" wrote in message ... You need a calcium based sand. A silica based sand can be used, but a calcium based sand is better. Wayne Sallee jthread wrote on 11/29/2007 6:02 PM: I went and got paver sand at Homedepot out of habit. Am I supposed to use play sand? The paver sand isn't very consistent. How's it look now. Better? http://www.safaricabs.com/tankdsb.jpg Jim |
#7
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Hi Jim,
I suggest that you read at least one of these three articles: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php http://web.archive.org/web/200208060.../1/default.asp http://web.archive.org/web/200012122...wb/default.asp These are all by Ron Shimek, the guy who essentially "invented" the concept of using a sand bed to process excess nutrients in a home aquarium. In a nutshell they each explain why there are basically three (closely interrelated) things that are important to a functioning DSB: 1. The range of particle sizes that make up the sand. 2. The depth of the bed. 3. The diversity of the organisms that live in and on the sand. Subsequent to these articles being published Shimek has added a fourth parameter: Sand bed area, saying that "edge effects" make it difficult to impossible to maintain the necessary DSB biological diversity in a tank smaller than about 40 gallons. IOW: A DSB in a small sump, refugium, or bucket is pretty much a waste of time in terms of nutrient processing. Each article specifically makes the point that the mineral make-up of the sand is not important so long as there is nothing toxic in the mix. It's likely that the sand in your tank is just fine so your next move should be to buy, beg, borrow, or st...(never mind) a number of 'innoculants' for your DSB from friends' or LFS's tanks and/or detrivore kits from various on-line merchants. Also, figure on re- inoculating your DSB periodically (once or twice a year). BTW: The live sand you bought mainly contains bacteria but it's unlikely to have much else in the way of infauna. HTH. Sedimentarily yours, Alex |
#8
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"Tidepool Geek" wrote in message ...
The live sand you bought mainly contains bacteria but it's unlikely to have much else in the way of infauna. Unlikely?? Are you kidding? Will have NOTHING else, becasue nothing else would survive shelf life in the sealed plastic bag. But I would mix both sands since the coraline sand could be pritier than the paver sand - I would put paver sand on the bottom layer than coraline from bag. |
#9
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#10
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"Wayne Sallee" wrote in message ...
Tidepool Geek wrote on 12/1/2007 2:28 AM: These are all by Ron Shimek, the guy who essentially "invented" the concept of using a sand bed to process excess nutrients in a home aquarium. LOL I'm going to invent the idea of growing plants in dirt, inside the house. :-) Was this idea used before him popularizing it as "DSB"? |
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