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#1
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Hi,
I was given a couple of goldfish (a bubble eye and another one which was orange and white) by my officemate about five months ago together with a 10 gallon tank and some very basic starter equipment. I didn't know anything much about goldfish at all and made some huge mistakes in the beginning. This included changing 100% of the water once a month, not changing the water once for seven weeks etc. Amazingly, they survived through all this though both usually used to sit at the bottom and mostly swim only when they were fed. Otherwise, they seemed ok (except that the bubble eye's bubbles became unbalanced - bad but nothing to compare what was to follow). This was until about three weeks ago. About a month ago, my roommate gave me a small pleco to add to the tank. The pleco seemed to like its new home (there was a -lot- of brown algae on the surfaces of the tank) after some initial stress. About two weeks after this, the bubble started to eat much less. I read up a bit on rearing goldfish on the web and started using a gravel vacuum to make partial changes and over the next few days, added a bubble curtain and started using "Start Right" with the water changes. I noticed some white "grains of salt" on the bubble-eye and applied some "Quick Cure" from the pet shop as well as 2tbsp of salt. The next day, I noticed that the bubble eye also had a huge red patch between the bubbles and small red patches were just beginning to appear on both the other goldfish (now very inactive) and pleco (still fairly active). At that time (about 5 days ago), I got Maracyn-2 and started the fish on that and added another tbsp of aquarium salt to the tank. I only had an ammonia test kit (no nitrite) and regular tests since then showed zero ammonia until today. Soon after, the pleco's red patch seemed to disapper (within a few hours) but it died very soon after I changed the water the next day (I was doing 30% water changes every other day after starting the Maracyn-2 since I got rid of the activated carbon) - it was floating on top dead. Yesterday night, the bubble-eye died (did a water change yesterday). Since the Maracyn-2 was not working and it was getting to the end of the 5 day course, I thought of making a last-ditch attempt to save the other goldfish with some Maracyn today. I did an ammonia test and for the first time it was positive (0.5 -1) so I immediately did a 50% water change and put in the last dose of Maracyn-2 and the first dose of Maracyn. This last goldfish was until 2 days ago eating small amounts of tubifex worms out of my hand (it would not eat if the food was not directly in front of it) so I still had a bit of hope left. However, immediately after the water change, it swam (struggling) to the bubble curtain and stayed there. It generally seemed out of air and died a couple of hours later. While clearly sick, it didn't look like it was on the verge of death before the water change. This brings out a big question. The "Start Right" that I bought was purple in colour and my big doubt was that it had a bit of potassium permanganate (only purple chemical I know). I was adding about 2/3 tsp of "Start Right" to the water before adding it to the aquarium. Now, I know potassium permanganate will reduce the available oxygen to he fish. So now, I am wondering if the "Start Right" contributed to the death of the fish since they seemed to die quite soon after the water changes (atleast the pleco was probably asphyxiated and as I sadly watched the last goldfish die today - it was clearly asphyxiated). I am still thinking of getting some new goldfish (yes, I seem to be a goldfish killer but I think I have learnt quite a bit over the last few days and will be more careful now) and don't want to repeat these mistakes so I am going to read the FAQ and would appreciate any advice and really want to know if "Start Right" contains potassium permanganate (they should have a warning about this - there are no ingredients listed on it). Thanks in advance for any comments. Srikant |
#2
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Firstly, your 10 gallon was overstocked. 10 gallons per goldfish is the minimum
as goldfish are extremely messy fish. Secondly it sounds like you did not cycle your tank. You need to cycle the tank to establish good bacteria that breaks waste ammonia into nitrite into nitrates (do a google search!!) Ammonia and NitrIte can be lethal to fish, Nitrate is not as bad as long as it is kept below 20ppm (some people say below 40ppm). Thirdly, it sounds like you did not quarantine your pleco - always quarantine new species before putting into a main tank as they can brind diseases, lastly Plecos and goldfish do not mix. Plecos develop a taste for slimecoats as they get older. Thats is my 2 cents! |
#3
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I would suggest you start with some easier fish. Bubble-eye is quite a
tricky critter to cater for. Common goldfish will put up with a lot more than those fancies - but even in the fancy field bubble eyes are one of the most prone to problems I think. But really - you have only room for one goldfish in there - and they always do better in groups - so you might like to think about something else. Some easy fish you could keep in there? a weather loach, maybe some zebra danios or white cloud mountain minnows. |
#4
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![]() "Mick Manford" wrote in message om... I would suggest you start with some easier fish. Bubble-eye is quite a tricky critter to cater for. Common goldfish will put up with a lot more than those fancies - but even in the fancy field bubble eyes are one of the most prone to problems I think. But really - you have only room for one goldfish in there - and they always do better in groups - so you might like to think about something else. Some easy fish you could keep in there? a weather loach, maybe some zebra danios or white cloud mountain minnows Right Start.. Generally I use that chemical during the initial setup in a larger tank.. I am cycling through one of my 55's for tempoary place for some of the more agressive fish from the Community tank.. Other wise I don't use the stuff, as I am not overly convinced on the usefulness of chemically inducing a cycle. When I do water changes, genrally I let the water sit for 24 hrs with out a lid on the container to let the chemicals in the standing water disapate.. ( here is a good place to use a chemical, a chlorine/cloramine eliminator might be useful for you. ). After all a ten gallon tank 10% water change is only a gallon of water, which is the same size a milk container, which could be kept out of sight in the office.. You could keep one GF in there and that would pretty much be all.. I have never had problems with my Pl*co's liking the slime coats on fish, but apparently people have been having problems with this.. You have to take into consideration as well, most pl*co's will out grow a ten gallon tank .. ( the common pl*c's most fish stores sell can get to 18 inches ) You could consider getting a rubber lip pl*c or a bristle nose pl*c as these fellows rarely get over 6 inches.. I don't like the Danios as these fellows seem to fin nip other fish, you might consider a Betta as well.. I think they are easy to take care of, and most have fabtastic colours. But most of all ( I read that you have taken steps to educate yourself ) read read read.. Its wonderful hobby... Tim... |
#5
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On Tue, 03 Feb 2004 20:39:41 GMT, T wrote:
"Mick Manford" wrote in message om... I would suggest you start with some easier fish. Bubble-eye is quite a tricky critter to cater for. Common goldfish will put up with a lot more than those fancies - but even in the fancy field bubble eyes are one of the most prone to problems I think. But really - you have only room for one goldfish in there - and they always do better in groups - so you might like to think about something else. Some easy fish you could keep in there? a weather loach, maybe some zebra danios or white cloud mountain minnows Right Start.. Generally I use that chemical during the initial setup in a larger tank.. I am cycling through one of my 55's for tempoary place for some of the more agressive fish from the Community tank.. Other wise I don't use the stuff, as I am not overly convinced on the usefulness of chemically inducing a cycle. When I do water changes, genrally I let the water sit for 24 hrs with out a lid on the container to let the chemicals in the standing water disapate.. ( here is a good place to use a chemical, a chlorine/cloramine eliminator might be useful for you. ). After all a ten gallon tank 10% water change is only a gallon of water, which is the same size a milk container, which could be kept out of sight in the office.. You could keep one GF in there and that would pretty much be all.. I have never had problems with my Pl*co's liking the slime coats on fish, but apparently people have been having problems with this.. You have to take into consideration as well, most pl*co's will out grow a ten gallon tank .. ( the common pl*c's most fish stores sell can get to 18 inches ) You could consider getting a rubber lip pl*c or a bristle nose pl*c as these fellows rarely get over 6 inches.. I don't like the Danios as these fellows seem to fin nip other fish, you might consider a Betta as well.. I think they are easy to take care of, and most have fabtastic colours. But most of all ( I read that you have taken steps to educate yourself ) read read read.. Its wonderful hobby... Tim... Thanks for all your replies. After going through the FAQ and reading the replies, I am thinking of getting some of the cyprinids. Any thoughts on how to get the old tank ready and running again. It is still in almost the same state as a couple of days ago (I haven't yet cleaned it or removed the water which I suppose I obvously should) without the goldfish, of course. I have several friends with aquaria (by the standards of 10 gal/gf, almost all seem to have overcrowded their tanks, with my roommates tank being 10 gal (was 5 gal earlier!) having one medium sized common goldfish (~3in) and four small ones (~1-1.5in)), so should I try and get some of the nitrifying bacteria from them to jumpstart the cycling? I have read that most of the cyprinids are schooling fish, so how should I do the cycling since it is recommended I get just one or two small ones to do so (couldn't really quite figure out what precisely to do from the FAQ)? Any suggestions will be much appreciated. Also, in retrospect, I realised that just before some of the worse problems started I changed my filter covering of my power filter (not just the carbon which was what I was changing earlier) twice in fairly quick succession. I suppose this removed a lot of the good bacteria (somehow, I was under the impression they were living mostly in the gravel). Obviously, I need to learn quite a bit more (I have an encyclopedia of tropical fish but that goes far too much in depth assuming one has easy access to microscopes etc. to be of much use to me right now) and the FAQ seems quite useful. Srikant |
#6
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On Tue, 03 Feb 2004 19:50:23 -0600, Marakani Srikant
wrote: On Tue, 03 Feb 2004 20:39:41 GMT, T wrote: "Mick Manford" wrote in message om... I would suggest you start with some easier fish. Bubble-eye is quite a tricky critter to cater for. Common goldfish will put up with a lot more than those fancies - but even in the fancy field bubble eyes are one of the most prone to problems I think. But really - you have only room for one goldfish in there - and they always do better in groups - so you might like to think about something else. Some easy fish you could keep in there? a weather loach, maybe some zebra danios or white cloud mountain minnows Right Start.. Generally I use that chemical during the initial setup in a larger tank.. I am cycling through one of my 55's for tempoary place for some of the more agressive fish from the Community tank.. Other wise I don't use the stuff, as I am not overly convinced on the usefulness of chemically inducing a cycle. When I do water changes, genrally I let the water sit for 24 hrs with out a lid on the container to let the chemicals in the standing water disapate.. ( here is a good place to use a chemical, a chlorine/cloramine eliminator might be useful for you. ). After all a ten gallon tank 10% water change is only a gallon of water, which is the same size a milk container, which could be kept out of sight in the office.. You could keep one GF in there and that would pretty much be all.. I have never had problems with my Pl*co's liking the slime coats on fish, but apparently people have been having problems with this.. You have to take into consideration as well, most pl*co's will out grow a ten gallon tank .. ( the common pl*c's most fish stores sell can get to 18 inches ) You could consider getting a rubber lip pl*c or a bristle nose pl*c as these fellows rarely get over 6 inches.. I don't like the Danios as these fellows seem to fin nip other fish, you might consider a Betta as well.. I think they are easy to take care of, and most have fabtastic colours. But most of all ( I read that you have taken steps to educate yourself ) read read read.. Its wonderful hobby... Tim... Thanks for all your replies. After going through the FAQ and reading the replies, I am thinking of getting some of the cyprinids. Any thoughts on how to get the old tank ready and running again. It is still in almost the same state as a couple of days ago (I haven't yet cleaned it or removed the water which I suppose I obvously should) without the goldfish, of course. I have several friends with aquaria (by the standards of 10 gal/gf, almost all seem to have overcrowded their tanks, with my roommates tank being 10 gal (was 5 gal earlier!) having one medium sized common goldfish (~3in) and four small ones (~1-1.5in)), so should I try and get some of the nitrifying bacteria from them to jumpstart the cycling? I have read that most of the cyprinids are schooling fish, so how should I do the cycling since it is recommended I get just one or two small ones to do so (couldn't really quite figure out what precisely to do from the FAQ)? Any suggestions will be much appreciated. Also, in retrospect, I realised that just before some of the worse problems started I changed my filter covering of my power filter (not just the carbon which was what I was changing earlier) twice in fairly quick succession. I suppose this removed a lot of the good bacteria (somehow, I was under the impression they were living mostly in the gravel). Obviously, I need to learn quite a bit more (I have an encyclopedia of tropical fish but that goes far too much in depth assuming one has easy access to microscopes etc. to be of much use to me right now) and the FAQ seems quite useful. I realize it is a bit silly to followup to my own post but I would appreciate it very much if someone could tell me whether to clean up my tank completely (seems like the right thing since there might be bad bacteria around) but it seems I could preserve some of the nitrifying bacteria if I just cleaned it up generally (without bleach) and then started up the cycling. After a bit of reading, I think I am going to get some zebras (on sale at my neighbourhood pet store). Srikant |
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