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#1
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Hi all!
My tank is by and large healthy but every once in awhile the fish (one or more) get a bout of fin rot or split fins. I then treat it with antibiotics and the tank is fine for a while. I would rather treat the cause, but I don't know what it is. Please give me any suggestions of what I can do to to curb this! My current group of fish have been with me for 2 years and I don't want to lose anyone! Thanks! Here are my tank specs: 46 gallon Emporer bio filter (charcoal filter changed once a month) Two 4" airstones Some live plants (Amazon swords and anacharis (which gets eaten by the fish, but that is its purpose) 2 Fantails, 1 Ranchu and 1 Black Moor - largest=3" body No gravel - only large rocks and some 1" pebbles Feed a variety of food - (Spirulina, Dried Brine, Wardley's bits, Hikari Flakes, Some sinking pellets, I can't remember the brand) - two pinches twice a day (not on the weekend - the tank is at work) Lots of Algae on the back and one side of the tank that the kids munch on Water change - 15 gallons a week - I use a water conditioner and make sure the water is the same temp as the tank. No Ammonia No Nitrites Ph fine Nitrates between 10-20 ppm Many thanks! Jennifer |
#2
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May be due to periodic poor water quality - May want to consider:
1. Just feed sinking food that they immeadiately eat - so no food gets into tank 2. Increase filtration - add another filter and clean well monthly 3. remove large rocks and pebbles - so tank is bare bottom ( dissolved organic compounds can accumulate under these) 4. remove live plants- ? source of bacteria Lets see what Dr. S and the others here have to say! |
#3
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fin rot is 90+ % water quality problem. usually it shows up when gravel starts
getting loaded and drives the nitrates up, but you dont have gravel and your nitrates are 20-30 which is great. I guess I am surprised that you only need to change 15 gallons per week to keep nitrates down. anyway. since the tank is at work it could be the cleaning chems being used tox the tank. at home it could be the city screwing around with the water. in any case, there is "mineral creep", after a while of small water changes the minerals which dont evaporate begin to build up. when you use the antibiotics do you also do some frequent water changes? water changes ... big ones are the best treatment for fin rot or splitting. AND, dont add any other fish or live things to the tank. close it now. less problems. Ingrid "Matthew Byrne" wrote: Hi all! My tank is by and large healthy but every once in awhile the fish (one or more) get a bout of fin rot or split fins. I then treat it with antibiotics and the tank is fine for a while. I would rather treat the cause, but I don't know what it is. Please give me any suggestions of what I can do to to curb this! My current group of fish have been with me for 2 years and I don't want to lose anyone! Thanks! Here are my tank specs: 46 gallon Emporer bio filter (charcoal filter changed once a month) Two 4" airstones Some live plants (Amazon swords and anacharis (which gets eaten by the fish, but that is its purpose) 2 Fantails, 1 Ranchu and 1 Black Moor - largest=3" body No gravel - only large rocks and some 1" pebbles Feed a variety of food - (Spirulina, Dried Brine, Wardley's bits, Hikari Flakes, Some sinking pellets, I can't remember the brand) - two pinches twice a day (not on the weekend - the tank is at work) Lots of Algae on the back and one side of the tank that the kids munch on Water change - 15 gallons a week - I use a water conditioner and make sure the water is the same temp as the tank. No Ammonia No Nitrites Ph fine Nitrates between 10-20 ppm Many thanks! Jennifer ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#4
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I have just lost white cloud mountain minnows to fin rot. I am guessing
that this is because the tank had not been fully cycled. Now I am more clued up on the cycle, etc, what would be the recommmended course of action to take? - take everything out, wash it and start the cycle again, or leave the water in there that the minnows were in and keep an eye on water chemistry until it completes the cycle? Thanks wrote in message ... fin rot is 90+ % water quality problem. usually it shows up when gravel starts getting loaded and drives the nitrates up, but you dont have gravel and your nitrates are 20-30 which is great. I guess I am surprised that you only need to change 15 gallons per week to keep nitrates down. anyway. since the tank is at work it could be the cleaning chems being used tox the tank. at home it could be the city screwing around with the water. in any case, there is "mineral creep", after a while of small water changes the minerals which dont evaporate begin to build up. when you use the antibiotics do you also do some frequent water changes? water changes ... big ones are the best treatment for fin rot or splitting. AND, dont add any other fish or live things to the tank. close it now. less problems. Ingrid "Matthew Byrne" wrote: Hi all! My tank is by and large healthy but every once in awhile the fish (one or more) get a bout of fin rot or split fins. I then treat it with antibiotics and the tank is fine for a while. I would rather treat the cause, but I don't know what it is. Please give me any suggestions of what I can do to to curb this! My current group of fish have been with me for 2 years and I don't want to lose anyone! Thanks! Here are my tank specs: 46 gallon Emporer bio filter (charcoal filter changed once a month) Two 4" airstones Some live plants (Amazon swords and anacharis (which gets eaten by the fish, but that is its purpose) 2 Fantails, 1 Ranchu and 1 Black Moor - largest=3" body No gravel - only large rocks and some 1" pebbles Feed a variety of food - (Spirulina, Dried Brine, Wardley's bits, Hikari Flakes, Some sinking pellets, I can't remember the brand) - two pinches twice a day (not on the weekend - the tank is at work) Lots of Algae on the back and one side of the tank that the kids munch on Water change - 15 gallons a week - I use a water conditioner and make sure the water is the same temp as the tank. No Ammonia No Nitrites Ph fine Nitrates between 10-20 ppm Many thanks! Jennifer ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#5
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dont start over. after a few water changes it will be fine.
FISHLESS CYCLING OF TANKS rather than getting the RIGHT kind of ammonia and getting the RIGHT amount in the tank, a pinch of Hikari Gold fish food for a small tank up to a tablespoon in a 75 gallon can be tossed into the tank, the heat set to 82oF and plenty of aeration. In 3 days or so watch the ammonia. If no ammonia is seen add more food. Ingrid "Babel Fish" wrote: I have just lost white cloud mountain minnows to fin rot. I am guessing that this is because the tank had not been fully cycled. Now I am more clued up on the cycle, etc, what would be the recommmended course of action to take? - take everything out, wash it and start the cycle again, or leave the water in there that the minnows were in and keep an eye on water chemistry until it completes the cycle? Thanks ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
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