Chiller reccomendations?

I'm starting to look into buying one. Have a 210 reef tank. Also has anyone
tried using them with an aquacontroller instead of the built in thermostat? I'd
like to really notch in a stable temperature.

Thanks;

Bob

That would be gallons or litres?

wrote:
I'm starting to look into buying one. Have a 210 reef tank. Also has anyone
tried using them with an aquacontroller instead of the built in thermostat? I'd
like to really notch in a stable temperature.

Thanks;

Bob

miskairal wrote:
That would be gallons or litres?

wrote:
I'm starting to look into buying one. Have a 210 reef tank. Also has
anyone
tried using them with an aquacontroller instead of the built in thermostat?
I'd
like to really notch in a stable temperature.

Thanks;

Bob



Ooopssss.....that's gallons......

Bob

wrote in message news
I'm starting to look into buying one. Have a 210 reef tank.
Also has anyone tried using them with an aquacontroller
instead of the built in thermostat? I'd like to really notch
in a stable temperature.

Why are you so concerned with "stable temperatures", Bob?

It is well known the water temperatures on the reef
varies A LOT during the year... Your animals are well
adapted to varying salinity and temperatures common on
all reefs they come from.

If you peak over the average couple of days during
the course of year nothing bad will happen...

"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
news
I'm starting to look into buying one. Have a 210 reef tank.
Also has anyone tried using them with an aquacontroller
instead of the built in thermostat? I'd like to really notch
in a stable temperature.

Why are you so concerned with "stable temperatures", Bob?

It is well known the water temperatures on the reef
varies A LOT during the year... Your animals are well
adapted to varying salinity and temperatures common on
all reefs they come from.

If you peak over the average couple of days during
the course of year nothing bad will happen...

I'm not speaking for Bob. I'm an intruder here.

My concern would be the temperature swings over the course of an hour rather
than the course of a year! The term is hysteresis and typical cheap
thermostat mechanisms cause a lot of it. The heater doesn't come on until
the temperature is 4 degrees too low and then it doesn't quit until the
temperature is 4 degrees above the setpoint. All in all in an acceptable
range, perhaps, but how fast do temperatures swing on a tropical reef? How
fast in a 6 gal. nanoreef?

I don't know the answer to that question but I would like to!
I *suspect* that temperature swing (hysteresis!) in a nanoreef can be rather
extraodinary and stressful to the inhabitants. A serious thermostat control
may be of benefit.

But then - I don't know ;-)
Thomas Bartkus

"Thomas Bartkus" wrote in message . ..
My concern would be the temperature swings over the course of an hour rather
than the course of a year! The term is hysteresis and typical cheap
thermostat mechanisms cause a lot of it. The heater doesn't come on until
the temperature is 4 degrees too low and then it doesn't quit until the
temperature is 4 degrees above the setpoint. All in all in an acceptable
range, perhaps, but how fast do temperatures swing on a tropical reef? How
fast in a 6 gal. nanoreef?

I don't know the answer to that question but I would like to!
I *suspect* that temperature swing (hysteresis!) in a nanoreef can be rather
extraodinary and stressful to the inhabitants. A serious thermostat control
may be of benefit.

Now you are touching slightly different subject...
Many of us use with great success a standard heater with embedded thermostate.
I am not sure if the hysteresis in such heater is that big (4'F) but even if,
it works great in many tanks. So yes, if you have nanoreef and your heater
has extraordinarly big hysteresis like 4F than I would be concerned...
Most systems I am familiar with the hystereris of a heater is less than 2F.

This will be similar hysteresis in an embedded thermostate inside your chiller.

I was rather talking about needing a chiller at all or living without one :=)

I am just jumping in also with the 750 w mh and 4-96 w atinics the temps
will rise daily not seasonally. At least here in the Midwest. Yesterday
was jeans weather and today its 78 with 65% humidity. Definetly not
condusive to stability. Bill
"Thomas Bartkus" wrote in message
. ..
"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
news
I'm starting to look into buying one. Have a 210 reef tank.
Also has anyone tried using them with an aquacontroller
instead of the built in thermostat? I'd like to really notch
in a stable temperature.

Why are you so concerned with "stable temperatures", Bob?

It is well known the water temperatures on the reef
varies A LOT during the year... Your animals are well
adapted to varying salinity and temperatures common on
all reefs they come from.

If you peak over the average couple of days during
the course of year nothing bad will happen...

I'm not speaking for Bob. I'm an intruder here.

My concern would be the temperature swings over the course of an hour
rather
than the course of a year! The term is hysteresis and typical cheap
thermostat mechanisms cause a lot of it. The heater doesn't come on until
the temperature is 4 degrees too low and then it doesn't quit until the
temperature is 4 degrees above the setpoint. All in all in an acceptable
range, perhaps, but how fast do temperatures swing on a tropical reef?
How
fast in a 6 gal. nanoreef?

I don't know the answer to that question but I would like to!
I *suspect* that temperature swing (hysteresis!) in a nanoreef can be
rather
extraodinary and stressful to the inhabitants. A serious thermostat
control
may be of benefit.

But then - I don't know ;-)
Thomas Bartkus

Thomas Bartkus wrote:
"Pszemol" wrote in message
...

wrote in message

news
I'm starting to look into buying one. Have a 210 reef tank.
Also has anyone tried using them with an aquacontroller
instead of the built in thermostat? I'd like to really notch
in a stable temperature.

Why are you so concerned with "stable temperatures", Bob?

It is well known the water temperatures on the reef
varies A LOT during the year... Your animals are well
adapted to varying salinity and temperatures common on
all reefs they come from.

If you peak over the average couple of days during
the course of year nothing bad will happen...


I'm not speaking for Bob. I'm an intruder here.

My concern would be the temperature swings over the course of an hour rather
than the course of a year! The term is hysteresis and typical cheap
thermostat mechanisms cause a lot of it. The heater doesn't come on until
the temperature is 4 degrees too low and then it doesn't quit until the
temperature is 4 degrees above the setpoint. All in all in an acceptable
range, perhaps, but how fast do temperatures swing on a tropical reef? How
fast in a 6 gal. nanoreef?

I don't know the answer to that question but I would like to!
I *suspect* that temperature swing (hysteresis!) in a nanoreef can be rather
extraodinary and stressful to the inhabitants. A serious thermostat control
may be of benefit.

But then - I don't know ;-)
Thomas Bartkus


You will find that in a normal aquarium temp control setup you have
much less than a 8 degree swing. Most systems that I have worked with
have less than a 2 degree swing. Yes home thermostates do have a much
wider range, just because it is more economical to change a few degrees
when you turn on your furnance or AC rather than just turn on for few
seconds to change your room temp a 1/2 degree.

Kim

"kim gross" wrote in message
...
snip

You will find that in a normal aquarium temp control setup you have
much less than a 8 degree swing. Most systems that I have worked with
have less than a 2 degree swing.

Yes home thermostates do have a much
wider range, just because it is more economical to change a few degrees
when you turn on your furnance or AC rather than just turn on for few
seconds to change your room temp a 1/2 degree.

Not so! They swing +/- a few degrees because they are sloppy, inefficient,
and ancient technology. Ignore lame rationalization coming from home
builders skimming nickels wherever they can.

While it's true that you don't want to have the system toggling frequently
for a few minutes of heat, you *do* want to keep the swing tight to no more
than 1 or 2 degrees. Expecting no more than +/- 1 degree max swing is now
quite reasonable.

Typical mercury switch home thermostats are awful in this regard and waste a
lot of energy as a result. Now that inexpensive electronic controls are
available, one shouldn't waste time replacing them. The programmability may
be a plus BUT they are substantially more energy efficient by the simple
virtue of keeping the temperature swing to a minimum.

And

My better half no longer feels compelled to set the temp to 73 when 70 is
just fine. With a good electronic (non-mechanical) control, 70 means she
doesn't have to suffer 69 and 68 degree chills before the heat kicks in.

70 degrees means 70!
Thomas Bartkus

And eventually when digital thermostats with humidity
sensors come down in price, that will be the way to go.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Thomas Bartkus wrote on 5/10/2006 9:36 AM:
"kim gross" wrote in message
...
snip
You will find that in a normal aquarium temp control setup you have
much less than a 8 degree swing. Most systems that I have worked with
have less than a 2 degree swing.

Yes home thermostates do have a much
wider range, just because it is more economical to change a few degrees
when you turn on your furnance or AC rather than just turn on for few
seconds to change your room temp a 1/2 degree.

Not so! They swing +/- a few degrees because they are sloppy, inefficient,
and ancient technology. Ignore lame rationalization coming from home
builders skimming nickels wherever they can.

While it's true that you don't want to have the system toggling frequently
for a few minutes of heat, you *do* want to keep the swing tight to no more
than 1 or 2 degrees. Expecting no more than +/- 1 degree max swing is now
quite reasonable.

Typical mercury switch home thermostats are awful in this regard and waste a
lot of energy as a result. Now that inexpensive electronic controls are
available, one shouldn't waste time replacing them. The programmability may
be a plus BUT they are substantially more energy efficient by the simple
virtue of keeping the temperature swing to a minimum.

And

My better half no longer feels compelled to set the temp to 73 when 70 is
just fine. With a good electronic (non-mechanical) control, 70 means she
doesn't have to suffer 69 and 68 degree chills before the heat kicks in.

70 degrees means 70!
Thomas Bartkus